We Eat, We Travel... We Cook

Plus a Travel-Inspired Cocktail Recipe

We still remember our afternoon meal a few years ago at a trattoria in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood. Under the restaurant’s vaulted ceiling, the owner held a whirring, motorized peppermill that ground out fine black grains atop our order of tonarelli cacio e pepe.

There was no shame in this peasant dish - an unabashed combination of unmistakable black p…